Arctic Circle, Norway
As soon as we left Svolvaer we find ourselves getting caught in rain. We’re heading towards a significant mountain range. A tunnel punches us through it and on the other side it’s lovely sunshine.
Henningsvaer is like something out of a fairytale. Or Highlander. You leave the main highway 6 KM from it and take a very narrow strip of tarmac that winds back and forth around the shoulders of giant peaks. You’re mainly at sea-level so it feels as if the road has been made artificially, built on top of rubble thrown into the sea to allow it to exist. And then you pop over two small, very steep humpback bridges. Ugly concrete and only wide enough for one vehicle at a time.
Abruptly the road and the bridges sweep you out to sea. And you’re jumping between small clusters of land. Henningsvaer is popular with mountain climbers and fishing. I’m neither but this photo, taken by a mountain climber (name unknown) provides a perfect birds-eye view of the route leading to Henningsvaer. The town itself is two tiny pieces of land lying pararell to each other, sitting out in the ocean, separated by a stretch of water. A small tank bridge has been slapped between them at one end and smothered in tarmac to connect them, thereby doubling the size of Henningsvaer. It’s a remarkable and unique place. And we’re spending the day and night there.
We’d heard good things about a place called Nusfjord. But that it was off the main route if you wanted to go there. I took the turning and the road barrels straight for almost a kilometer without a kink in it, directly towards this mountain range. Fantastic. And then you get to Nusfjord itself. And it’s just…
You have to pay money to enter the tiny town. This might make you bristle, but the parking facilities are free and the town has managed to maintain a wonderfully authentic historical vibe thanks to the funding it generates for itself. Park up and wander in. It’s nothing fantastic. It’s just, very nice. Good enough for us to spend three hours there. If do you go, make sure you check out the cafe and grab yourself some of their homemade waffle cake with sour cream and jam. Oh my God. We are talking goodness on an epic scale.
Fragments from the trip I recently completed:
Travel: Arctic Circle, Norway — June 2013
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